The last days in Peniche, Portugal are unfolding in really amazing deep soul aloha spirit. Times and times again, it just amazes me, how all the events happening in a period of time, can come together in the most spectacular ways and waves that continue in an endless swell in the depths of the souls and places with such power that can make any reality a happy place to be.
Sunday was the day of strong winds and only the Supertubos side of Peniche Peninsula was able to brake surfable waves. We managed to find a less crowdeed peak north of Supertubos wtih Iztok, the owner of Surf School Tribu in the morning. Was lots of fun, tough there were short rides. The massive power and the speed of that short break makes this short rides a really amazing experience … just like a rush of pure pleasure overtakig every cell of your body.
After the dinner and high tide we retured to the Conscolasao fort, hoping that the waves are good again on the spot we surfed in the morning. And we were both surpriesed to find perfect breaking waves on left side of Conscolasao.
If Iztok, who is much more experienced surfer would’t be with me at that time, I would’ve enter this spot. I never surfed it before and even never surfed on a reef breaking waves.
I always have respect for the ocean, and quite frankly I wanted to get lots of skill on sand before going on rocks in the bottom. And having some bottom-touching experiences on sand on some huge swells, it made me respect the power of the waves even more. And even if you never surfed before, when you see some masive waves break on the point of Conscolasao . . . You just feel you don’t want to be in the wrong place when that power unleashes from the water on to the coast.
Anyway we enter this spot and the enterance was really smooth, we were in line-up in no time, with just one other surfer. I took the first wave on this spot and was instantly amazed by the beauty and the shape of this wave. The sun was shining behind the wave, so whn the watter rose, you the blue water shined in this magical golden orange sunset colors. I made a really nice bottom turn, the nicest ever on my new magic stick… but the top turn… man!!
It was my first time ever, that when I made the top turn, I could hear the water pushed away from the board splash on the surface behimd the wave…. i was so stoked from hearing this, that following that I was only able to make only one really sharp bottom turn to exit this wave. That feeling was so strong I can still feel it after 4 days… my soul was just producing wave after wave of pure pleasurble feelings.. It was so much I needed to dive under water and scream my soul out… and I wanted more and more and more;)
After the sprint to the line-up I noticed at least 10 more people entered the water and all of them were local surfers. But they were really nice local who respected all the surfers in the water and even greeted them. Amazing vibe in the water, the real aloha spirit of surfing. One of them even helped me with tips, how to safely make it out of the spot without hitting the rocks and stepping on se orchins.
I rode some more waves, not so good ones as there were a lot of surfers there, and I was starting to feel really tired, was my 5th hour in the water. And after one wave Iztok said that it’s his last wave for today. I decided I will do the same. It took some time before that wave came and when the peak was on me and when I stared I said to myself; “It’s our wave out”… but the flow of nature pointed me to another direction. This wave was my absloutely best ever wave I ever rode. I made 6 sharp turns on it, staying in the steep pocket of the wave all the time…. there was such trumendes storm of peasurable feelings storming over my soul..in that moment tht was theony feling I was able to feel…. and I felt like time has stoped, like I was on that wave for eternity and even more.
When I finished with a small jump over the close-out section I could feel the rocks under my feet.. I made tho complete the wave, from the peak to the coast.
Fucking awsome!
No way I wnt out after this. My whole body was super-charged by this magical deep soul-experience and I surfed this spot untill night fall.
I did pay a price for the first time rocky spot surfing, some cuts on the palms and some sea orchin spikes in a foot.
But that didn’t botherd me at all… all I could feel on that day was wave after wave of pleasure breaking up in my the depths of my soul.
Pure flow of pleasurable nature experience.
And with this amazing feeling of grtitude I drifted away into the dreams, where I can surf my soul any and every deep soul magic moments like this.
Aloha
Deep Soul Surfer 