The Goddess of The Ocean has blessed us dearly with the massive swell on Baleal Beach for the whole 10 days accompanied with strong to medium offshore winds.
It’s like the wettest deep surfing soul dream, coming trough . . . in reality!
After 2 days of big swell and onshore winds, I was surfing at Bar Do Bruno Surf Spot in Baleal where there was cross-shore winds. It’s not the best spot to surf as there is always minimum of 100 people in the line-up. And it sometimes gets quite dangerous because of the skill difference. But I’ve got my 2 hours per day in the Ocean and also some waves.
But yesterday at 12, when I come to the Baleal beach . . . man what waves.
And as I got to the surf spot at the surf school Tribuat the middle of Baleal Beach I heard news that Gabriel Medina and some really skilled surfers are surfing here now. Wow.
I was looking at the line up the whole time, while I was putting on my wet suit. What insane rides on the waves. Amazing! And so many waves, and on each one . . . at least one surfer. Unbelievable sight.
I was swift in the line-up. It was amazing. There was a lot of people in the Ocean, but also a lot of peaks and not stop waves, so there was enough for everybody. And it really was nice to be seeing the Pro-guys in action from the line-up point of view.
I’ve got some really nice, steep, high and fast drops on my 6 hour surf session, divided in to 3 parts. But at 7 p.m. I was quite exhausted as I also go some really nasty wipe outs by the steep, fast breaking waves.
And when I paddled on an about 2 meter wave, failed to make the take off and enjoyed another white water ride. After paddleing back to the line-up, some guy said: “don’t look at your feet, your feet were fine, look where you wanna go and you’ll go . . . look down and you’ll be going down like now.” Well said. The guy really must have some knowledge to spot my mistake while being busy with paddeling out on 2 meter waves. Good adivce. The nest 3 waves were really nice, made the take off, sharp turns and long fast ride.
AMAZING DAY for surfing.
Being in the water with the guy who was doing this tricks in the free surf session in Supertubos is just unimaginably great.
Thank you Rip Curl, for bringing the Pro surfer to the surf spots of Peniche and thank you goddess of the Ocean, for the wonderful, dreamy conditions at the Baleal Beach, Peniche Portugal. It’s just a bit unconvinitent for the Rip Curl Pro Event Spot, Supertubos, which is getting strong onshore wind and almost no incoming swell.
The whole week of similar dreamy contritions on the forecast 😉