The last day of my living in Peniche, Portugal was very different than all the other last day I’ve had staying some place up until now. Before yesterday I was always feeling sad and didn’t want to leave my home at The Great Ocean…
And this time, I felt really good and relaxed. I wasn’t in any kind of anticipation for my London trip which started at the afternoon, nor was I feeling anticipation to go to my country of birth, Slovenia. Moreover… I didn’t feel sad about leaving The Great Ocean… because it stays with me – in my heart, from every moment to every moment…within every moment.
After eating breakfast at 7 am I started and cleaning my flat on 4 wheels. It was swiftly done with the 6 square meters of apartment to clean. Than I packed everything essential for my life in a hand-luggage, took my surf, wetsuit and freinds for the final surfing session of that trip.
Before going to the Ocean, I drove to my friends, The shapers at Custom glass. These guys are really amazing and I feel we’ve became really good friends while I was living in Peniche. It’s really interasting, how people that were borned and raised, like 3000 km away, are able to connect on deeper levels. It feels like I know these guys Joao and Zippy Gonsclaves for all my life already. Defenately looking forward to be meeting them again soon… very soon.
Than it was time for surf. We came to the beach infront of the Danau Baleal Beach bar. The waves were not breaking nicely, so we went to have a coffer in that bar…
There I’ve met this guy “Orange”, again. He is a really nice person, who used to be a famous professional body boarder in the world championship of body boarding. I’ve told him about my feeling of feeling more at home here than at my “home” country. He was really glad to hear that. He said: “Man, welcome here all the time, come, show respect and it’s your home.” That went straight to my heart, comming from one local waves rider.
After drinking Coffee we went in to The Great Ocean, despite the fact the waves were still breaking quite strange, because of the low tide. As we entered the water with Maja, Mai, Klemen and Blaž, the conditions changed rapidly.
As if the The Great Ocean, did its best for my last day. The waves were breaking in close-outs. In many starts of the waves, I was able to get 3 really good 1,5m+ waves. Amazing. And after 2 hours the coditions got worse again, but I had to catch a bus to Lisbon in 2 hours anyway.
I went to the toilet in the bar and while passing 3 girls, sitting outside, I’ve had and impression I’ve heard them talking in Slovenian language. Coming back from the toilet I said: “This can’t be Slovenian, or?” Well, It was. So we had to drink one more coffee with Mojca, Nina and Špela before leaving. I mean had to… we’ve chosen to. It’s really interesting with some people you meet. You see them for the first time, and you just know, feel somehow you will meet them again. It really dosen’t happen often, but man, it really is a nice body sensation.
It was time… to say goodbye to the people of Tribu, Peniche and The Ocean.
We will be seeing each other again, soon… very soon
London calling – the bus from Peniche… leaving.
Thank you for making Peniche….
my Home at heart – we will never be apart. (my eyes are happy wet, my soul is squezzed by the overflow of the pleasant sensations swell)
Today, as I wrote in the previous post, is the day, which I spend alone… every year. I knew about this decission already yesterday. Still today in the morning I felt some need to go surfing to the beach and spend the day with my friends, visit the shaper and call one local girl Patricia for coffee, today. After smoking I have realized that this need I felt in the body, came from my “thinking mind” and spread the feeling to my “feeling body”. After refocusing and refining this feelings, I again felt the strong presence of the pleasant feeling in the solar plexus area, which source is external. Continue reading June 21: Exploring Peniche and the best office in the world – Miles away→
After waking in the morning, I instantly felt happy, as the weakness of yestarday was sucesfully washed and couched away 😉 It really felt great, to be feeling all-right and strong again. I was thankfull that yesterday I took the whole day to rest… in the background of my consciousness this song was playing, which one person, defenately worth meeting again, shared with me the other day. Continue reading June 20: International day of surfing – always do what feels right!→
These days of my surf trip have really been amazing. I was able to get some waves every day for the last 20 days in a row. But the last 4 days, from Thursday on, a massive 2+ meter swell has been hitting the cost of Portugal. In these days I was really happy about my decission to be training paddleing, positioning and standing on my new 6.2, 18 3/4, 2 5/16 shortboard. It was quite a challange, comming from 7.0 , 21 1/2, 2 1/2 mini-malibu. But all the week’s effort paid off when the 3 meter + waves started breaking on Baleal beach here in Portugal. And with the swell also came the offshore winds and the waves were really breaking nicely… I was in the watter every day all day, just putting my whole heart in these perfect waves. Continue reading June 17: After 20 days of surfing in a row; bombing waves – ready to go!→