Start The Wave

First Lip Line Floater In A Big Messy Surf Session


Lip Line Floater
Lip Line Floater

On A rainy Wendesday in Peniche Portugal, the surf forecast for the day was perfect. Big swell and offshore winds. I spent my rainy morning to write the thoughts for this Blog and the news for the Surf School Tribu website. I did all the tasks for my company at home, so I was able to have a great mid and high tide session at the afternoon.

As I’ve done my work and drove off to the surf spot of today the sun has come out from behind the dense clouds and it was instantly warm. I felt really great, having done everything and now for some worryless surfing session in the afternoon.

Rainbow From The Ocean, Peniche Portugal
Rainbow From The Ocean, Peniche Portugal

When I entered the water it’s was fairly easy to enter the line-up as I was able to catch the pause between the sets. I set my self a bit to the side of other surfers to enjoy the warm sunlight in the middle of the ocean. As I was loooking at the vastness of the great Ocean, a rainbow started to appear over the small island called Baleal.

Start The Wave
Start The Wave

I could not enjoy this amazing site for much too long as there was a peak rising high in my direction. My wave. I paddled strongly and got it. I haven’t realized how big the wave is until I was actually on it. 2 good meters of of not so steep wall was breaking slowly and nicely offering you a truly enjoyable, long, pleasant and breathtaking ride on the wall of the wave. I managed to get about 7 waves like this. Really great surfing session.

Big Offshore Waves - Baleal Beach Portugal
Big Offshore Waves – Baleal Beach Portugal

And just before the high tide started to go to low tide and messed up the waves completely I managed to get my best wave of the session. This one was accentually very steep on some sections, allowing me to make some very sharp and fast turns. It was an amazing ride…. and when I saw that the wave is going to end in a close-out I wanted to ride my board over it to avoid the white water. As I got to the top of the wave, my board kind of turned downward to the face of the wave and the lip, which broke in that moment and took me  down with it. Was an indescribable feeling of going down like this. And I was so surprised, as I didn’t expect that will happen, that my legs were so soft when I made the landing with the lip, that I failed the landing. But nevertheless, the trick was done . . . maybe not completely by my intention, but still.

Anyway, you need some luck, which comes with a strong determination to do one thing for the first time. And than you relive that feeling in your mind over and over again, which gives you more and more repetitions of the feeling of doing it. And after that it gets more and more easy and you gain more and more skill, up to the point when it becomes a habbit and you can do it in your sleep, more and more in dreams.

Amazing feeling of progress in surf and in life.

Aloha

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