Today was a lay day on the Rip Curl Pro Portugal, cause of the bad wave conditions. The swell was acctually not so bad, but the strong onshore winds made the strong short break wave to a strong close-out wave. Still some locals were surfing the waves at the Supertubos.
But the only super tube you could find on that beach today was the one on the beach it was made by activist group called Skeleton sea who are putting their efforts to keep the Ocean clean. And they’ve got all my deep soul support.
The tube on Supertubos is made of broken board, which they’ve got from the local surf factories .
I’ve met one local surfer at the media center. She is from Caldas Da Rinha, a city near Peniche. And she told me that on such conditions the beach that city is working perfectly. Offshore winds and a lot of incoming swell. She said it’s dreamy. That’s definitely a good, local information for the surfing days ahead. Was nice talking to her, seems like another surfing soul. And a good one, as her friends were in the the messy waves of Supertubos.
Than we drove to the village Ferrel to my friend Joao at the Custom Glass repair to repair my both short-boards I broke in the last days of surfing. Was kind of a tight feeling in my body, as the money situation now isn’t appropriate for this . . . but still, I’ve got really great waves and all it matters is that my best board is fixed by Saturday morning as there is great swell coming to Peniche.
And the feeling vanished completely upon arriving to the Custom Glass Factory as they’ve got the John John Florence surfboard to be repaired.
And than the tight feeling was gone in an instant. . . You surf, you break boards. It’s just the way it is.
Still is better than not to break the boards and not surf waves. Thank you John John Florance, for bringing this fact to the surface of my attention and overflow the sour feeling of having broken boards.
We examined the surf-board carefully. It’s a really light, thin 5′ 11 surfboard. Amazing surf. I really wish to be able to ride on one like this one some time soon. Must be super fast and super carving feeling to be riding a wave on it. But for sure, there is a lot of paddling in front of me, before that day will come.
And it’s already on it’s way-we.
And I will claim my first tube, aerial and such tricks I really want to do, like one of the Pro World Surfers will claim The 2012 Rip Curl Pro Portugal trophy.
- Kelly Slater wins the Hurley Pro (jbaynews.com)
- State of professional surfing [VIDs] (matadornetwork.com)
- The best of the London Surf Film Festival – in clips (guardian.co.uk)