Surfing session of today was just, simply crazy. The Baleal beach was striked with almost direct swell of 3.5 meter high.
We entered the water with Diego joining us at the right place of the beach, as the waves were smaller there. There was about a 10 minute pause between the bombing waves, so we managed to pass to the line -up in about 5 minutes, quite easily. But than when the big bombs started striking in, there was a sprint paddle session to get the last minute duck-dive in the huge, steep off-shore wall.
Iztok and Diego already rode on a big bombing wave, with just the drop and an close exit and there was a massive peak coming towards me. The Offshore wind is making the wave a lot higher and steeper, holding it back, so you have to paddle on a really critical point to make an entery. I paddled on this thing and was not so scary in the beginging, but when this thing lifted me up and made the take off… man! There was a deep hole under me. I make the take off, and for a moment, there was a moment of not touching the board at all. We were both free falling in the wave. . . and than suddenly I feel the board under my feet and make this most amazing, fast drop with a sharp front side bottom turn. As I got to the wall I see this monster ready to close-out. I turn my board down the face of the wave swiftly and I managed to escape the lip. I threw my self in the white water and tried to paddle out to line-up again. I couldn’t pass and after about 5 minutes I decided to go out and paddle around again. As I came out, I noticed that the current pushed me about 300 meters down the beach. Really strong wave current on this beach break.
I re-entered the water and made it in the big waveline-up again. We were the only ones on this peak. And it was crazy. There was really a lot of paddle sprint sessions to avoid being in the inside section of the broken waves. But we were also ridding some really big, fast waves.
I rode only 4 waves today, no fail, no wipe-outs. And one of them was driven to the end, with two fast bottom turns and 2 cut-backs before the massive, over 3-meter high monster wave disappeared in the rip current. A really satisfying feeling. The most amazing and the highest wave ride I have ever done. It’s truly indescribable feeling and sensation.
After this I entered the line-up once again. Make an entry in the close-out wave. After avoiding the lip smash, the white water was hard. And I was caught on the inside section at the time of the big set. On he second wave that passed by I made a deep suck dive, but still there was just to much power in that thing, so it took the board out of my hands and took it with it. I was prepared for the pull of the board which went with the wave, but my expectations were shred to pieces when I heard a snap and no pull on my leg. . .
My leash was broken. I came out of the white water and my board was about 10 meters in-front of me. I swam hard to reach it, but was struggling to even stay on the surface as the water after the big wave is pulling you down hard. Soon the next wave borke behind me and I had a idea to body surf the white water. Was a stupid idea as the white water was pulling me up, pushing me down, stretching and compressing me in all possible directions . . . at that moment I got really afraid. “How am I going to get out of this?” The next white water that came, I swam under it. I was swimming to the shore between the waves and diving under the white water that kept comming. After 10 minutes of struggle I finally reached the shore and could touch the sandy bottom.
Was just the greatest feeling to be on land and feel the ground after this. I saw that my friend Diego, who also broke the leash of his body board was already carrying my board. I was completely relaxed and amazed at the power of this Ocean, tired and hot. I took off the top of my wet-suit and enjoyed the shallow water of the beach for some time.
I am really thankful for this day’s experience. I was surfing on a 3+ meter fast offshore wave, 4 of them. And if not for a borken leash, for sure I would’ve entered the line-up again. But I think this broken leah was a sign from the Ocean that I pushed my skills and strength to the limit on this day.
Now at night . . . the dreams of the most amazing wave experiences will be repeated in the most breathtaking feeling experiences you can vividly imagine.
Thank you, the Great Ocean,
For this amazing, respectful feelings of this day.