Superwave, Supertubos, Peniche, Portugal

Surfing

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My Story Of Surfing

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5

The story begins on a hot sunny January day in Morocco . . .

The Tube Is Near

I was Borned into a surfer on the Cro-Cro surf-spot beach in Morocco on January 18, 2011.

Raised by The Ocean itself,  under the guidence of the best surf school, Tribu, from Slovenia.

I look at my life from “my life before meeting The Great Ocean” and “my life after surfing The Great Ocean”.
This is the place, the activity, the pasion and the meaning, where I have found my true self

My First Unboraken Wave - Broke On My Back, Moroco, January 2011
My First Unboraken Wave – Broke On My Back, Moroco, January 2011

Just two days after comming home from my premier surfing trip with Tribu to Morocco, I have bought the plane ticket for my next surf trip at the Tribu surf house in Portugal. In that second part of my surfing story; The path of waves, I have discovered, that all my “life before surfing”,  was all just a preset for the surfing passion.

I love the sea..  and water in general, ever since I can remember. Actually, my oldest childhood  memory of my life is from the sea. I can remember clerly one day, when we were on a family vacations at the Croatian cost. I can recall the pure enjoyable feeling, when my father was “throwing” me to the sea from one pier… I didn’t know how to swim yet. So every time he threw me I sinked to the bottom, and crawled on the bottom-rocks to reach the shore. I guess, there is where I very early realized, that if you can’t get over a challange, you can always go under, (the water):)
Hehe, I can remember clearly, one time I tried to fake-prove to my father I can already swimm (in order to get more stoked – he promised me, that after I learn how to swimm, he will be “throwing” me in the water from the big piear??) And he just smilled to me and said: “if you are such a good swimmer, than why are the palms of your hands all blody” (from pushing myself over the rocky bottom of the sea). That was an early lesson, that lying doesn’t help you getting what you want…

Skateboarding at 16 years of age
Skateboarding at 16 the age of 16

Since I was 7 years old, I was training swimming professionally. My strongest competition was 1500m freestyle. One time I came in second on the national championship. After the age of 15, I wanted more of the social life and training 11 times per week was to much to combine with school and my new desire.
I’ve had a lot, really a lot of party life for the next 10 years after quiting profesional swimming. Also, I have started snowboarding and skateboarding .  I did a lot of those sports, so I am familiar with a “single board” boarding for more than 11 years already, before I even tried surfing…

At the new years-eve of 2008 a major, at that time, seemingly the worst event in my life happened. The year 2007 was the peak of my “carefree” party student life, which endend in August 2008, when I returned from a ten month Erasmus Exchange, I opened my first company. I could’ve never done such a sucesfull company, without the events and realisations,  that followed the new year’s eve of 2008. It really hurts to say what happened… So let’s just say, that… it is, probably the most terrible thing any one person can intend do.

Snowboarding at the age of 25
Snowboarding at the age of 25

After that.. It was imposible for me to fall in love… for almost4 years to follow. I was with girls, but not with love, just being. Since that new year,  I am studying NLP and practicing meditation, which, for true pleasure of surfing is trully important.

When i was in Latvia on Erasmus I discovered that traveling is my true passion,as we traveled to 11 european countries in just 10 months. So, when starting my company with 1100 eur in my pocket, my first goal was: to build a camper van. I knew starting a company will take some investment, and I needed a cheap way to feed my bew adiction – surfing. The van, I call Globe Cruiser, was born in september 2009.

Wipe out, Portugal, May 2011
Wipe out, Portugal, May 2011

On my second surf adventure, i met one reealy stoked guy Tim. Tim was living in his car here in portugal for 2 months every year, for 3 years. Just surfing. So my destination for the 3rd trip was shown. The globe cruiser belongs here, by the ocean in Portugal. After some surf updates to the van, we took this trip for the whole if October 2011 with my surf friend Domen and my sister Ana.

On this trip I met one really beautiful, fun and exciting girl. We were together for a couple of nights…

Surfing Portugal, October 2011
Surfing Portugal, October 2011

I don’t yet know what exactly happened or what was so different, about her energy, that reawoke all those feelings I was unable to feel for the last 4 years. But it happened, I was trully in love, like…you know that sense of destiny you share with one other person. Was really special, especialy after such long time of inabiluty to feel “true love”.And because of that, the new year 2012 surfing trip to Morocco was, so much more painful. Well, the trip was super awsome, with some awsome surf sesions,  but comming home… was a “sad” story.

Merry Christmas Session - Morocco 25.12.2011
Merry Christmas Surf Session – Morocco December 2011

After calling her, there was no response… (before I went to Morocco, she couldn’t wait to see me) Adding to this  money-flow problems at my company, that occurred  because of the huge payments crisis in Slovenia… my world just colapsed.But this turned out perfectly great after just 2 months …
Now I have rebuilt my world on true and powerful foundations of honest love and sharing.
I mean… how can one find one’s true self, if you at first don’t lose your.self?

Feel The Surf, Portugal, Jun 2012
Feel The Surf, Portugal, Jun 2012

Now all is like it’s meant to be… I moved into my Camper Van (Globe Cruiser)in Portugal, next door to my home –  The Great Ocean…
I can surf it everyday…
and I can trully  feel, share, experience and create true love… But this time, as a matter of choice, not destiny, luck or whatthefuckever.

Surf, Love, Travel and The Ocean… truly made me The happiest as one person can be.

Pure Happiness Of Surfing
Pure Happiness Of Surfing

Thank you…
To all events, people and circumstances . For showing me the way to the true meaning of being; pure freedom  and just unconditional happines.

Thank you, from my heart

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