Today in the morning I woke up in a bit of a muscle pain over the whole of my body from working physically for the whole of yesterday. But when I opened my eyes, like the first second, the first thought in the mind and feeling in the body . . . I have to go surfing!
And than the thought to go to work, was kind of depressing, coming from those thoughts and with all the pain in the body, was extra difficult to get up and do what needs to be done. And just make the most fun out of it.
So the day turned out really nice in the end, but the thoughts and feeling in need of surfing remained in the background all day long . . .
I remembered about one of the most fun surf sessions we had this year on Baleal Beach in Portugal. The surf crew of Tribu was just perfect. Really fun people on the beach and in the line up. I think that was about the second day since I’ve met Živa, one person that you feel that something, . . . you know, over time. It’s quite an amazing feeling meeting such people.
Anyway, that day the waves were only average half of the day. Than in the afternoon a really high high-tide moved the wave breaking line to the steep points of the beach and turned the average waves in to steep fast short-breaking waves. Perfect.
It’s true we had to surf on soft-boards (used for beginners) to avoid breaking the hard.boards, as the waves were breaking in to really shallow water. Mostly when you finished the waves, the water was below knee-high:)
But these soft boards are actually quite similar like one NSP mini-malibu, so it was still lots of fun riding the steep fast waves.
On this day I was on one wave, really long. Just looking at the wave, as it would be never ending.
Than all of a sudden I kind of got out of that enchanting feeling and I look behind me, and there was sand! I kind of instinctively jumped of the board and ran in to the shore. It was the last moment before the wave smashed the board into the sand. That was just one of the greatest feelings of my surfing. A completely completed wave.
I was screaming loudly from all the truly joyful feelings of happiness.
In all was an almost perfect day . . . great people, perfect waves, we ere only missing the warmth of the sunshine.
But you know, how they say: “We all want pleasure, nobody likes pain. But there ain’t no rainbow without a little rain.”
And this saying goes well into today as well. As I was driving home from work, some sun rays broke trough the clouds . . . and maybe we can meet with Živa again today already . . . if all I have form surfing for this day is these pictures of a fun fun fun surf session.