The best song for that day:
“keep your head up, keep your hearth sttong,
keep your mind set in your ways (waves) …
keep your hearth strong…”
As yesterday continued after posting the blog, I started talkning with Stephan, who I met yesterday. This guy is living a surfing-van life for the past 8 years. Amazing! And for a second a thought of my futurebeing in the same way pass trough my mind. We both agreed, that in this time, this is the closest you can get to complete freedom and conection with nature. As we were talking, I look at the ocean, just with the conrner of my eye, I see some big waves breaking on the beach. Not the best conditions, as there was a strong 40km/h crossshore winds and the waves had a lot of closeouts, but it is surfable.
Was really amazing feeling to feel the true power of the waves while paddelig to the line-up. I managed to get 2 good waves in the sea of “sharks” (good-skilled local surfers) and some 1o+ closeout-wipeouts. This is also quite a stoked feeling. Just being caried weightlessly by the powerful ocean. At least it’s pleasant on a beach break with sandy bottom 😉
Yesterday’s sesion was also the first, after 17 days,I was able to go into the watter without folium. I had some crash in the skate park and hurt the skin of my knee. And if you “have” to go into the watter with such an injury, this is the best way to protect it. O.K. it’s true it heels much slower… but not getting in the ocean for a week or two it’s just no option – well not just because some minor thing like this. After 3 hours in the water I started to feel really hungry and I decided to go for a small meal to the Cruiser (my camper van), and go for another sesion right after it. But when I finished with the meal, which I ate in the wetsuit, I started to feel really tired and pain in the back. I said to myself;” maybe it was enough for today”. And than this voice came: “No, don’t be a p***y, you want more.”
And I went…. out of the van, with surfboard in my hands…. and after ten steps, the wind, blew the board out of my hands and smashed it to the concrete ground… WTF!!! FODES! I just pick up the board and go back to my van… what a fail sesion. I look at the board and it has 3 cracks, 2 on the side rail and one on the nose. And I thought to my self: “Man, next time y0u will listen to your true self and respect the body feelings.” Quite a lesson. After getting out of my wetsuit, I had a thought about going to the skate park…. but “man – go home and rest – you had enough of sports today).
After ariving back in the house of Tribu, I was a bit pissed off about the whole situation, as I had 7 euros in my pocket for the whole weekend, and now I have to repair the surfboard. I called my friend Joao, the shaper. Owner of the best surfboard repair in the Peniche area, Custom Glass. He said that he can fix my board tomorrow, but I should bring it at 7:30 in the morning. So, if before I was considering a friday’s night out with friends. This now, was just an option, not executable one. It didn’t feel right anyway, and if something, I learnd today – go with the feeling flow. Now… in the “relative world of unlimited possibilities” I didn’t wish for this. But the results of this day are just a logical consequence of trying to go against the flow, in the “absoulute cause-effect world”.
So woke up early in the morning, and went to have a morning coffee with Joao and his employee DJ Zippy, really cool guys. My board will be ready just in time for the high-tide surf sesion in the afternoon. The price of 30 eur for such a quick and quite dificult repair is really nice, and I can pay him on monday. Really cool guy, Joao. And after the friends come together and put them selfs together, we are making a barbacue launch at the cliffs and prepare for the afternoon to sunsest session.